THE GAZE, IN DETAIL

Eyelash and eyebrow serums: understand the formulas, choose the right care

Serum is one of those understated beauty steps that can naturally become part of a routine. But how do you choose the one that suits you? Behind every bottle are a formula, ingredients, application guidance and sometimes efficacy studies. We'll help you make sense of it all, so you can better understand your products and find the care that meets your needs.

EXPLORE THE GUIDE

8 CHAPTERS 10 SOURCES LASHES & BROWS

Inside this guide

01 — 03UNDERSTANDThe routine and the formula

01Purpose of the serum 02Ingredients 03The INCI formula

04 — 06DECODEResults and supporting evidence

04The evidence 05Results 06Precautions

07 — 08CHOOSEMake the right choice for you

07Choosing well 08Our selection

01 / 03

UNDERSTAND

The routine and the formula

What is an eyelash or eyebrow serum really for?

Eyelashes and eyebrows frame the eyes. Their shape, natural fullness and appearance contribute to facial expression. A serum is a targeted care step that can fit into an existing beauty routine or become part of a new one, depending on what you want.

Unlike mascara, which instantly changes the look of lashes through makeup, a serum is generally designed for regular use. Depending on its formula, it may contain conditioning agents, moisturising ingredients, peptides, vitamins or botanical extracts. The intended cosmetic benefits may include suppleness, the appearance of the hairs or their apparent resistance to breakage, when these effects have been documented for that specific product.

Eyelashes naturally go through phases of growth, rest and renewal. Losing a few lashes is part of that cycle. Breakage linked to certain habits is a different phenomenon. To understand these mechanisms, our complete eyelash guide explains the main stages and everyday care habits.

Eyebrows have their own characteristics too. Tweezing, makeup and grooming can affect their appearance. Our eyebrow guide explores sparse areas and suitable routines.

Here, we'll take a closer look at what is inside the bottle: ingredient families, how to read an INCI list, and how results are studied. The idea is simple: understand what you're choosing instead of choosing a promise alone.

Ingredients: what makes the difference

An eyelash or eyebrow serum often combines several families of ingredients. Some give the product its texture, while others contribute to comfortable application or cosmetic properties. A familiar name on the packaging can be a starting point, but its role also depends on the overall formula.

Understanding the ingredients in a serum

Glycerin and humectants. Glycerin, a common skincare ingredient, helps retain water and contributes to a formula's moisturising properties. It may be combined with texture agents that allow precise application.

Peptides. A peptide is a chain of amino acids. The term covers many different substances, with varying properties and levels of supporting evidence. For example, Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1 appears on the official ingredient lists of RevitaLash Advanced and RevitaBrow Advanced. Two peptides should not be assumed to deliver the same results simply because they belong to the same family.

Biotin and panthenol. Biotin, also known as vitamin B7, appears in a number of formulations. Its presence in a topical product does not, on its own, demonstrate an effect on growth. Panthenol, a derivative of vitamin B5, is also used in cosmetics, particularly products intended to care for fibres and skin.

Botanical extracts. Ginseng, calendula, green tea or flax may complement a formula. Their relevance depends on the extract used and what has been measured in the finished product. A botanical origin does not by itself guarantee tolerance.

Texture agents and preservatives. They contribute to stability, preservation and application. These practical aspects are particularly important in products used near the eyes.

A 2025 study published by the Danish Environmental Protection Agency examined 44 serums formulated without prostaglandin analogues and identified 20 distinct peptides. This illustrates the diversity of available formulas. To make an informed choice, look at the specific ingredient names, the composition as a whole and the evidence available for each product.

INSIDE THE FORMULA

Peptides

Molecules to assess in the final formula.

Vitamins

Their relevance depends on their cosmetic use.

Conditioning agents

They influence the look and feel of the hairs.

Botanical extracts

Their role depends on the extract and available evidence.

INCI: how to decode a formula

On cosmetic packaging, the INCI list identifies ingredients using a shared international naming system. This makes it possible to recognise a formula's components across languages, even when the names are unfamiliar.

First clue: the order of ingredients. In the European Union, ingredients are listed in descending order of weight at the time they are added. Those present at less than 1% may be listed in a different order after ingredients present at more than 1%. This helps identify the main components, without revealing exact concentrations.

Second clue: function. It is normal to find water, humectants, texture agents, preservatives and ingredients highlighted in product communication together. What matters is understanding how they work within the formula: the presence of a well-known ingredient does not describe the performance of the formula by itself.

A real example: the RevitaLash Advanced ingredient list published in France. It begins with “Aqua/Water/Eau”, “Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Carboxyethyl Acrylate Crosspolymer”, “Glycerin” and “Biotin”. Water is the base of the formula; the copolymer contributes to texture; glycerin is a humectant. Further down the list, the brand names “Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1”, several botanical extracts and “Cloprostenol Ethyl Amide”, which it explicitly classifies as a prostaglandin analogue.

This first reading reveals four groups: base and texture, moisturising agents, targeted cosmetic ingredients and a substance with particular biological activity. It does not establish exact concentrations or a level of efficacy. If the formula has been updated, the ingredient list on the product you receive takes precedence.

Third clue: read the instructions as well. An INCI list does not replace directions, application recommendations or possible contraindications. France's DGCCRF consumer authority explains in its labelling guide how to identify this information and what it means.

In practice, a good reading starts with five questions: what type of product is it? What are the first ingredients? Are there any particular substances? How should the product be applied? What precautions appear on its packaging?

This approach moves you from recognising a single ingredient to gaining a more complete understanding of the product.

DECODING · REAL EXAMPLE

One formula, multiple functions

Extracts from the RevitaLash Advanced INCI list published in France. Each ingredient has its own role in the full formula.

INCI LIST — ANNOTATED EXTRACT

Aqua / Water / EauWater-based base

GlycerinHumectant

BiotinVitamin B7

Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1Peptide

Cloprostenol Ethyl AmideProstaglandin analogue

01 — READ

Name and function

INCI names identify ingredients, not exact concentrations.

02 — UNDERSTAND

The whole formula matters

Claims must be assessed in the context of the finished product.

03 — CHECK

Product directions

The label and precautions on the product received take precedence.

Educational example: partial list, not ranked here by concentration. See manufacturer and DGCCRF sources below.

02 / 03

DECODE

Results and supporting evidence

Results: understanding what studies actually say

When it comes to serums, numbers are often what catches your eye first. They can inform a choice, provided you understand the method behind them. A consumer survey, an instrumental measurement and a clinical study do not necessarily describe the same outcome.

A consumer study collects participants' feedback on their experience with a product. They may be asked about the appearance of their lashes, suppleness or ease of application. This is useful information about their perception, within the conditions of that study.

Instrumental measurement follows a defined parameter using a tool, such as an image, a dimension or another measurable characteristic. You need to know the protocol to understand exactly what a result means.

A clinical study may include professional monitoring and a formal protocol. A comparison group, the duration, the outcome measures and the conditions of the trial all influence how its conclusions should be interpreted.

RevitaLash Advanced as an example. The brand reports an independent eight-week consumer study involving 157 participants. It states that 94% noticed an improvement in the appearance of their lashes. This figure refers to a self-reported cosmetic benefit; it does not mean that lashes grew by 94%.

For RevitaBrow Advanced, RevitaLash reports a separate eight-week consumer study involving 139 participants. The studies concern different products and criteria specific to each formula. A result attributed to one product should not automatically be applied to the other.

Ask five questions when reviewing evidence: how many participants? For how long? Which exact product? What outcome was assessed? And through which measurement or reporting method?

European Regulation 655/2013 requires cosmetic claims to be supported by adequate, verifiable evidence. This is also our editorial approach: present the figures in context, without overstating what they show.

HOW TO READ RESULTS

Three ways to interpret a result

Consumer study

It shows: what participants reported perceiving.

Check: the question, duration and number of participants.

Instrumental measurement

It shows: a parameter observed through a defined method.

Check: the tool, protocol and measured difference.

Clinical study

It shows: results within a defined methodology.

Check: criteria, groups and potential bias.

What results can you expect from your routine?

Caring for lashes and brows often comes down to simple habits. Gentle makeup removal, avoiding unnecessary rubbing and using a targeted product as directed by its manufacturer all contribute to a consistent routine.

Expectations are personal. Some people want their lashes to look better cared for; others seek a more supple feel or a regular care step for their brows. There is no single way to approach the beauty of the eye area.

Makeup results are not skincare results. Mascara and brow gel instantly change the visible shape of the eye area when applied. A serum is a different kind of routine, with claimed results potentially assessed after a period of use defined by a manufacturer or study.

Appearance and growth are two different concepts too. A conditioning product may help improve the appearance of a hair fibre. Claims about growth or biological density involve different mechanisms and require appropriate evidence. This is why terms such as “strengthening”, “nourishing” or “densifying” should be understood through the exact results associated with each product.

To keep track of your routine, simply note your start date. If you want to compare personal photographs, use similar lighting and framing. Such images may help you reflect on your experience, but they do not constitute a scientific test.

Follow the frequency recommended in the instructions: applying more product or using it more frequently does not guarantee better results. If a product is intended for daily use, follow those directions.

Finally, significant, unusual or sudden loss of lashes or brows should be assessed by a healthcare professional to understand the cause. Cosmetic care can be part of everyday beauty without replacing professional advice.

The right technique for a delicate area

Care around the eyes calls for precision. Each serum has a specific amount, frequency and area of application. Before use, read the instructions and check the precautions on the packaging.

How to apply RevitaLash Advanced. The brand recommends applying a thin line once daily along the upper lash line to clean, dry lashes, avoiding contact with the eye. It advises using only a small amount and allowing it to dry before applying other cosmetics. RevitaBrow Advanced has its own applicator and directions intended for eyebrows.

An ingredient family to know: prostaglandin analogues. Some formulas intended for the eye area contain them. These biologically active substances are subject to particular attention from health authorities. RevitaLash France lists “Cloprostenol Ethyl Amide” as a prostaglandin analogue in the official ingredient lists of RevitaLash Advanced, RevitaLash Advanced Sensitive and RevitaBrow Advanced.

In February 2026, the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) issued an unfavourable opinion concerning three specific substances: Isopropyl Cloprostenate, Methylamido-Dihydro-Noralfaprostal and Dechloro Dihydroxy Difluoro Ethylcloprostenolamide. These names are not the ingredient declared in the three RevitaLash formulas mentioned here. The opinion therefore cannot, on its own, establish the safety of a different substance; it underscores the importance of a substance-specific assessment.

France's Anses agency has also published a cosmetovigilance alert concerning certain serums containing prostaglandin derivatives and adverse effects observed around the eyes. The reported case notably involved a formula containing Isopropyl Cloprostenate. This information is useful for understanding concerns surrounding this family of ingredients without automatically equating all of its molecules.

The manufacturer's precautions remain essential. Official RevitaLash pages advise against use during pregnancy or breastfeeding, on irritated or damaged skin, and in certain medical or eye-related circumstances. Advanced Sensitive is marketed for sensitive eyes but also contains a prostaglandin analogue.

If redness, irritation or discomfort occurs, discontinue use; if symptoms persist, consult a healthcare professional. Always check the full contraindications in the instructions supplied with the actual product.

Quality beauty advice includes this transparency: it allows you to make a choice suited to your circumstances while understanding both the product's intended benefits and the conditions for using it.

03 / 03

CHOOSE

Make the right choice for you

How to choose the right serum for you

Choosing well starts with a simple question: what are you looking for? Caring for your natural lashes, giving your brows more attention or finding a formula developed for a particular need? Once your goal is clear, the product information becomes easier to interpret.

How to choose an eyelash or eyebrow serum

1. The application area. Lashes and brows are not interchangeable. Serums have different applicators and application techniques. Always check that a product is designed for the area where you plan to use it.

2. Your beauty goal. Appearance, suppleness, care or apparent resistance to breakage: choose based on the benefits actually claimed and documented for that specific product, rather than a broad promise.

3. The composition. Read the first ingredients, identify any particular components and check the precautions. INCI is not a performance score, but it is a useful starting point for understanding the formula.

4. Evidence and tolerance. Consumer studies, instrumental measurements and clinical evaluations provide different kinds of information. If your eyes are sensitive or you have a particular medical condition, contraindications and professional advice take priority over advertising claims.

5. Application and budget. The recommended frequency, drying time, stated bottle duration and price all matter. Comparing the cost over a usage period stated by the manufacturer may be more useful than looking at the bottle price alone. Such durations are estimates.

At Browlab, we select products and explain where they fit into a routine. The idea is not to collect bottles, but to choose a formula and technique that genuinely meet your needs, with all the relevant information.

YOUR CHECKLIST

5 things to check before choosing

01The areaLashes or brows

02Your goalWhat you want

03The formulaThe ingredients

04The evidenceThe outcome assessed

05How to use itPrecautions and routine

The products selected by Browlab

At Browlab, every care product needs a purpose. Our eye-area selection includes three RevitaLash Cosmetics products. They share a brand identity, but their formulas and intended uses are not identical.

RevitaLash Advanced, for lashes. The brand presents this product as a conditioning serum intended to improve the appearance of lashes. The formula currently published in France notably features BioPeptin Complex® and Revitasome® technology. The independent eight-week consumer study referenced by RevitaLash involved 157 participants; 94% reported an improvement in lash appearance. This figure describes the self-reported outcome assessed in that study.

RevitaLash Advanced Sensitive, for a particular need. The brand describes this version as developed for sensitive eyes. Its official ingredient list includes Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 and Panthenol. It also contains Cloprostenol Ethyl Amide, a prostaglandin analogue: “Sensitive” therefore does not remove the need to read the manufacturer's precautions.

RevitaBrow Advanced, for eyebrows. This serum is designed for the eyebrow area and has its own application technique. Its ingredient list published by the brand includes glycerin, biotin, Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1, botanical extracts and Cloprostenol Ethyl Amide, among other ingredients. RevitaLash reports a separate eight-week consumer study involving 139 participants.

Below, you can find the three products with their actual Browlab product pages, currently available sizes and individual information. When it comes to ingredients and instructions, the label on the product you receive remains the reference if a formula has changed.

Explore our RevitaLash selection, or continue reading our dedicated lash and brow guides. The key is to understand the formula first, then choose the product that makes sense for you.

LASH CARE

Free delivery on orders over €60
to a pickup point. More info

Easy returns: you have 90 days after delivery to request a return. More info

Pay in 3 interest-free instalments with
our partner Klarna